Return to Senegal

It feels ridiculously good to be in Senegal again. We saw so many marvelous things, stayed in so many unique places, but in the end I'm happy to be back and settling into the Kaolack rhythm I've come to know so well. Pissy cab drivers, enthusiastic post office staff (what? No gift from Togo for THEM?!), and my favorite cyber cafe, all waiting for me as if I had never left. On our way back from Mali we passed through Tambacounda, where I had never been, and then headed south to Kedougou. It was my first time there as well, and what a different feel Kedougou has from central Senegal! It rightly deserves the reputation as being the most beautiful region. Even now, in the dusty dry season, you can tell how lush it must become after the rains. The place is thickly forested, and has low mountains in the distance which probably turn stunning emerald. Arwen and I climbed up a ridge to look down over the tree-covered plain, and to marvel once again at the tiny villages perched on top of the rocks. But our big adventure was a 30kilometer bike ride on a dirt path to a gorgeous little town, right at the base of some craggy mountains. There is a waterfall hidden in the cliffs, tumbling down over a hundred meters to splash into a chilly pool. Further downstream, women and girls wash their laundry in the little creek, slapping the clothes against river stones to beat out the stains. After admiring the lovely waterfall, we hiked up to the top of the cliffs to find it's source. You can go right to the edge, where the water flows down, all the way to the forest floor. There were also caves of red rock, really convoluted and fun to explore. We even saw some wildlife there. A whole colony of bats in the cave, startled by our presence and agitatedly flitting back and forth, then reattaching themselves to the ceiling with their feet. Also, a troupe of baboons. On our climb up we heard them barking, and later on we surprised the troupe in their crossing of the river, and got a close look at them! It was very cool. Plus, on top of the mountain, you get to see the entire village spread out below, and the stunning geography all around. So, after hiking in the environs of Kedougou, I feel like I'm back in the flatlands again.
Now I'm rushing to complete all my chores in Kaolack, so I can gte home to the village! But apparantly all the mass-transportation drivers are on strike today and tomorrow, so I may have to wait until Wesnesday to finally get there. Oh, Senegal.