Sunday, December 28, 2008

Ala Fia: Christmas in Northern Togo

I'm having a wonderful time in Arwen's village. Everyone has been exceptionally welcoming to me, they've served special food for the holidays, and I've been able to observe Arwen doing her work and interacting with the people she's been living with for a year. We got in on Christmas eve, and early the next morning we got up, put on our complets, and went to church with her village counterpart. The church is a very basic cement box, with open grillwork for light and air, but inside I experienced one of the best Christmas masses I can think of. There was so much amazing music, from singers and a small group of musicians playing traditional instruments. The sermon was long, but very good, in both French and Kabye (the local language), all about hope, thankfulness and working for peace. Throughout the congregation, the feeling of sincere happiness was palpable. It was such a wonderful sensation, I felt swept up in it. At a certain moment, they had an offering, and invited people up according to the day of the week on which they were born, which apparantly holds great importance in this culture. There was dancing, greeting, and all around good spirits. Everyone was dressed well, and the women especially were striking in their beautiful complets, some with braids or wire head-dressed, most with shaved heads, which I think it a very attractive look.
Later, they served us "fufu", boiled yams pounded into a sticky paste, and served with sauce. The sauces are much spicier here, but bearable, and I like the taste of fufu! "Pate", which is a grainier dish made of ground corn, is not nearly as good. But so far what we've eaten has been pate (which is cheaper to make than fufu) with a sauce on the side. Then we ball up a bit of the starch and dip it into the sauce dish. Since it was a special occasion, we also had spaghetti, and once or twice a dish called "watchi", which is sticky rice and beans with hot tomato sauce. Since I arrived during the grande fete, we've had meat for several dishes, but Arwen says this is not common; she explained that usually they put leaves in the sauce to add nutrients and flavor. The area of the village is gorgeous. At the base of some low mountains, it it covered with trees of many kinds, including palm trees, which are particularly picturesque at the foot of the hills. A truly lovely spot.
I can't forget one thing that has marked my Christmas here: tchouk. "Tchouk" is a home-made alcohol, kind of like beer, but not really. They serve it in little calabash bowls. Arwen and I have been offered a lot of this! It's not bad, but after a couple calabashes I'm pretty done with tchouk. Anyway, Togo is so different from Senegal, and I am having a fantastic experience here.

Monday, December 22, 2008

I go to Togo!

At last, after ridiculous delays that pissed off an entire planeful of people headed to Abdijan or Lome, I got here. To be welcomed by Arwen looked gorgeous in her Togolese complet. It is beyond wonderful to be visiting such a good friend on her home turf! This is a quick blog. My first impressions from one afternoon in Lome: humidity, greenery, palm trees and grass everywhere. No horse or donkey carts, only lots and lots of motos. In the market, almost exclusively women selling their goods. Beautiful women with short-cropped hair, so practical in this hot climate, and really more attracive than mounds of fake-hair braids. And the colors that never get old. Wax-printed fabrics (called pagne here in Togo) in all shades and patterns, piles of jewelry, food, decorations, and lots of Christmas gifts! Yes, Christmas is coming, and people are buying their Santa hats in the Lome marche.

Friday, December 19, 2008

Making soap and seeing friends

Yesterday we finally got to do the soap-making seminar I've been planning for awhile! The girls' group in the village has been buying and selling soap for a couple months now, and I offered to pay for the trainer to come if they wanted to learn to do it all from scratch. They were delighted by the idea, so I found the trainer, set a date...and had to whange the date...had to change it again...saw no materials or preperation....was getting worried. But yesterday morning, they pulled it off. We picked up the trainers in the nearby town in a charette, and set up shop in the courtyard by my hut. The girls were put right to work with dull knives, making soap shavings, while the trainer explained the different kinds of soap they were going to learn. In the end, they did it two ways: making soap from scratch with lye, oil, and water; and also extending commercially-made soaps by melting them down and adding water with only a little lye. The extended soap is cheaper to do, but the lye-and-oil soap is more flexible and can be higher quality, depending on the oil. So, we had a fun day stirring pots of boiling soap foam, or beating the oily mixture into a thick batter, then pouring it into improvised moulds to set. The soap hardened enough by that afternoon to cut into bars. Then, I tried to explain to the girls how they should keep track of how much their ingrediants cost, in order to set a price for their soaps and make a profit. They had a really good time making the soap, and I they have a pretty good grasp of basic economics, so I'm looking forward to continuing this little project when I get back! Our next challenge is to find the perfect soap recipe for maximum profit and saleability.
But in the meantime, I'm going on vacation. This is the only big, out-of-Senegal trip I have planned, and I can't wait! I fly out to Togo on Sunday to meet up with my very good friend, Arwen, who I haven't seen for a year and who'se been serving in Togo since I arrived here in Senegal. Then, together we plan to travel up through Burkina Faso, through Mali, back into Senegal before she flies out again. It's gonna be great, right? And best of all, I'll get to be with a friend for Christmas.

Monday, December 15, 2008

Tabaski take two, weddings, and solar cooking

Last Tuesday was my second village Tabaski experience, and this year it was more fun, since I understood what was actually going on for the most part. The first day, I dressed up, covered my head, and went out with everyone to a shady spot behind an ancient tree. There, for probably an hour everyone prayed, led by three village notables who stood up front, their heads and shoulders covered by a cloth. I sat in theback with the women, as I usually do, and enjoyed the atmosphere of serenity. Once the prayres were over, we greeted each other with a "baalma ac", responded by saying "baalma ala", which means roughly, I think, an apology for anything one might have done wrong the previous year, and acceptance of the apology. Then a round of blessings for health and happiness. I also got plenty of blessings for my work, for going home safely to the USA, for having a husband and male children. Amen! Though I was sure to specify that I would like girl children first, anyway.
After prayers they killed the rams, which I managed to peek at this year. It is not so gruesome as one might think, but the blood does spurt everywhere, and the most disturbing part of it is probably the sheep's death twitches, though his throat is already cut. Anyway, meat is not for the squeamish. To butcher the rams they hang them up by the hind legs from a tree, peel off the skin (which they just discard; I would htink it could be used for something) and remove the entrails (which they do eat, after a thorough cleaning), then chop up the muscle meat. It's really interesting from an anatomical point of view, to see hoe the animal is put together in all it's layers. And of course, once the butchering is done, the cooking begins. This year, once again, I was put in charge of onions. I will probably smell like onions for weeks. But, they're supposed to repel flies, so I don't mind. The menu: day one - sauce with meat, onions, fried potatoes, macaroni, and lots of oil, sopped up with chunks of bread; day two - "cous cous", which is actually tiny vermicelli noodles, topped with meat and onion sauce; day three - mafe farine (a kind of tomato sauce thickened with flour) and meat, over white rice. Pretty tasty stuff.
One might think everyone was tired of meat after three days of eating sheep, but not so! The past several days have been full of celebrations, practically one a day. There was a good harvest this year, which means people have some money, and that has resulted in a lot of "noos" (fun times) in the village because of weddings. I've been to three in as many days! The young brides' husbands sent them beautiful new clothes of crinkly, shiny bazane, heavy with embroidery. They also sent mounds of food: onions, potatos, rice, vermicelli, chickens, and goats. And when there's meat and fancy clothes, there's a party! I've been in charge of the onions, as usual. But the result is that there have been a lot of oily, delicious meals lately in celebration of these weddings. None of the girls have left the village for their husbands' homes yet; this is one of the many steps that comes before that, involving giving of gifts, clothes, food, and other amenities. During these celebrations I have no idea what the men do. I never see them. But the women cook, and laugh, and dance, and talk long into the night.
Another thing I'm experimenting with is solar cooking. I brought a simple solar cooker with me, thanks to a neighbor, and last eyar kept it in my hut, telling people they could borrow it to try whenever they liked. But I noticed that once family asked more than all the rest, so after the rainy season I decided to outright give it to them. Then, because people are leary of risking their expensive food in a solar oven that, in their view, may or may not work, I decided to buy ingrediants every week or two to try cooking Senegalese food in a solar cooker. So far, with this family, we've tried mafe, white rice, and tchou. They were extremely dubious at first, but willing to try (it was my money, after all) and the results have been fairly good. Cooking rice without steaming it first was a big concern, but it turned out well, only we didn't put in enough water so it was a little crunchy. Both sauces, the mafe and the tchou, cooked perfectly in the heat of the sun, but they weren't ready in time for lunch, so only the children got to enjoy them with their late-afternoon half-meal before dinner. Still, everyone's interested in the solar cooker, and hopefully once they've seen it in action, they'll try it for their own cooking as well as mine.

Saturday, December 6, 2008

Pictures and stuff from Mom's visit

It's back to the village for me after Mom's wonderful visit. I'm still coming down from the high of great food, relaxing days, and of course having a friend around all the time. But now it's the season for threshing peanuts, and Tabaski is coming up again. Everybody's days are spent in the fields, holding huge bowls of peanuts and chaff high in the air and pouring them out so the grass blows away in the wind. People are shelling their peanuts, selling them to the boutique, and otherwise life is back to the way it was when I got here this time last year.
Tabaski is on Wednesday, and my counterpart just went to buy a sheep in Dinguraye. The moms have their hair braided, and tomorrow we plan to do henna on our hands and feet. Time for noos! Then, the girls' group has invited (well, I invited, on their behalf) a trainer to come teach them how to make soap in the village, so there's that to look forward to. Also, the books are definitely in circulation! I'm arranging to be availible two days a week for return/check-outs and the kids are loving it. Even though they can't read most of the English words, they can still enjoy the pictures and learn from them. So, things are going well here in the village.

And now, some photos from Mom's trip!


The best tea in Senegal on Ile de Goree. He also voted for Obama, as you may be able to see from the sticker.

This Aby makes much better bean sandwiches than I do!

A special treat for me was a two-hour horseback ride in the savannah around Toubab Dialaw. So wonderful! Thanks, Mom!

Mom enjoying a nap in one of our beachside hotels. This is the beautifully decorated Sobo-Bade, which reminds me of Hobbiton.

Our last name on a pirogue.

Walking with a tailor in his fabulous shirt, in Palmerin.

You can barely see her, but here is Mom in our awesome treehouse! The Lodge des Collines de Niassam was perhaps the best hotel I've ever been in.

Me buying vegetables from the same guy every week, at the louma in Nioro.

The family portrait.

Mom and I and all of our stuff in a charette to the village.

Me in a St. Louis cafe. Are we still in Senegal? It's hard to say in this picture!

Letters, visitors, and packages from home keep us Volunteers sane. Thank you, maman!!!!

Saturday, November 29, 2008

Things to be Thankful For

Mom and I were on Ile de Goree on Thursday when we encountered a Thanksgiving surprise: Jen and her parents were there as well! So we enjoyed a fantastic dinner together (seafood, not turkey, but it was delicious anyway!) They're just starting off their trip, where Mom and I are finishing up. I hope they enjoy it! We've had a truly amazing time. I attribute the luck we've had with travel to our gris-gris, specially selected to ease our voyage. Best 1500cfa I've spent in Kaolak for a long time! Don't leave home without one! Anyway, smooth travels and good times all round. Since we left the village, the primary focus of our trip has been food. I have eaten SO MUCH good food this past week! It's gonna be a long way to fall back to cere ak basi. But, I have a lot to do before going on my official month-long vacation to Togo, then Burkina Faso and Mali with my friend Arwen...I'm excited, but trying not to freak out too much prematurely! After waving goodbye to Keur Ali Gueye, Mom and I went to Palmerin, which was perhaps the most beautiful place I have been in Senegal yet. We stayed in a resort hotel which had built our room literally into a huge baobab tree. The trunk fomed one wall of the bathroom, there was a terrace for breakfast encircled by powerful branches, and the room was cradled high atop the thick trunk. Really, it was a stunning place, full of birds who landed on the lagoon, and other rooms tucked away in corners on the property. The food there was entirely haute cuisine. Wonderful creations using local ingrediants that were just delicious. Light lunches with plenty of vegetables, and perfectly prepared meat and fish. We did a kayak randonee in the mangroves, where we saw all sorts of beautiful birds; pelicans, flamingos, cormerants, and so many others that I don't even know the name of. Even if you're not a birdwatcher, Senegal forces you to appreciate the variety and beauty of birds - there are so many, such diverse shapes and colors, you can't help but notice them! My favorites are these birds that look like black starlings, until they turn to catch the light, and you realize that they are in fact shimmering blue, their feathers sparking as they fly off, when you notice that they also have a graceful long tale which only spreads completely when in flight.
We also had four relaxing days at the beach of Toubab Dialaw. Good food, a calm atmosphere, and the ever-present sound of waves rolling onto the Atlantic shore. Our hotel there was adorable, too; they had decorated it all with shells or smooth sea stones, with curving alleys and low thatched roofs. It looked like a Hobbit village! One day we walked all the way from Toubab Dialaw to Popenguine, which was pristine coast all the way to this town called Ndiayne, where all of a sudden we encountered children using the beach as a toilet and people dulping their garbage onto the sand, right next to the fishing pirogues waiting to head out to sea! Really gross. But, we survived the nastiness and made it to Popenguine, which is as gorgeous as ever. Still, if ever I appreciated the importance of lartines, it was on that beach of Ndiayne!
Then, a fabulous overnight on the Ile de Goree, doing the museums all the next day and wandering the island. It really is a lovely place, full of bright colors, cobbled streets, and billowing bougainvillea everywhere. Now we only have a day left before Mom flies home, and I return to eating millet daily. Last night, though, we went to a bar called Just4You and ende dup at a concert of Les Frères Guissé, who were AMAZING!!! They were really excellent. A unique sound, and they kept the crowd animated the whole time. What a treat.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Mary Kay Comes to Senegal

Me and my two host moms showing off our new Mary Kay products. Don't they look pretty with their lipstick!

Mom's visit has been going so well so far, it's almost hard to believe! That last blog post was by her, of course, in case you thought I'd started talking about myself in third person. We started our trip in St. Louis, which was absolutely beautiful. Lots of old colonial buildings, fat horses pulling urban charettes, and three days of delicious food. We ate our money all right! And it tasted so good! Then, a trip to Kaolack (which was cleaner than usual, thank goodness. The sewage has begun to dry out not after the rainy season) to shop and hang out with the Volunteers, and then the highlight of the trip so far: Keur Ali Gueye. It has been such a full, happy week in the village! Everyone was beyond delighted to meet my mother, so welcoming and excited. She bought tea and sugar, which we distributed to every compound, so the whole village could partake in the fun, but also brought vermicelli and five fat chickens for a neighborhood feast of pasta with chicken-and-onion sauce. We ate well there too! The family really showed their culinary skills for the special guest. We've had chicken twice, a wonderful tomato mafe with fish balls, and vegetable-rich ceeb u jen all week. Plus, there has been work to do! I distributed about thirty books yesterday to kids who all crowded into my hut. I'd filled a trunk from the Bookmobile stash, to start a loaning library in the village, so people can get used to the idea. It was even more of a hit than I expected! Especially with the older kids, who were in competition for the few French books, which went especially quickly. But even the English ones with pretty pictures (and really, a picture is worth a thousand words, right?) went like hotcakes. I explained to everyone that the book is theirs to enjoy AND PROTECT for two weeks, and then they must return it and may choose another one. The test will be when I return, to see how many I get back. But they're out of my hut and into people's hands, which is the whole idea anyway. I've also been working with the girls' and women's groups, setting up a soap selling business. They want to make their own, so I found a trainer and set a date for after Tabaski, which hopefully she will keep. They know the materials they have to provide - cooking supplies, regular peanut soap, ash, neem, sticks for stirring, etc. - and I already bought the lye, which is sold in the Kaolack market. Mom and I also got gris-gris for safe travel there, which so far have served us well! No problems on the road to report, exept for dust.
Also, of course, the gifts from the USA. Each of the kids got something. One of the biggest hits was a little whirlagig flower on a stick, the kind that spins when you blow it. My host dad got a fancy Leatherman, which he will no doubt put to good use with all the repairs he does, and each of the host moms got a pretty beaded ring, and a Mary Kay lipstick. Everyone loved their gifts, and it gave me special pleasure to hand out the makeup, which my good friend in Seattle sells. Really, nothing brigthens a woman's face more than a little lipstick. Which is ironic since I haven't worn any for nearly a year! Maybe on Tabaski....
Wish us continued good luck and good travels, we're off to the beach before Mom heads home!

And a very important postscript: I see that more than a thousand dollars has already been donated to the latrine project! Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU everyone who has contributed!